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Confessions of Horticultural Crimes

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Kym Pokorny

I’ve committed a sin. Actually, more than one. Many more. I was 15 the first time. My parents were in Hawaii on a rare vacation. I was not, but I wasn’t bitter. Really. My intentions were genuine when I pulled out my dad’s well-used Felcos. I’m just a teensy bit obsessive – we’re talking about a girl who vacuumed the carpet in her bedroom all in one direction – so I thought trees and shrubs should have a certain symmetry.

I set to work on the quince and pyracantha. It would have been hard to ruin them, so I was pretty safe there. Then I turned to my mother’s pet plant, a new saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana).  The poor thing was only a couple of years old and about the same 5’ 2” as I am.  By the time I was done, it was more like 4’ 9” and missing most of the few buds that had formed.

Magnolia soulangeana
If you want to avoid my mistakes, plan to attend a talk about “Crimes Against Horticulture” by Billy Goodnick, an author, speaker and landscape architect in California, at the Yard, Garden & Patio Show  presented by Dennis’ Seven Dees Feb. 28 through March 2. His seminar, along with 39 others, are free.

To this day, I don’t know what I was thinking when I attacked mom’s magnolia. I like to think it was a sincere wish to help.  I’m pretty sure mom didn’t agree. She’d planted the magnolia in a prominent place next to the path leading to the nursery, where we walked dozens of times a day. It didn’t take long before she noticed the horticultural horror I’d committed. She didn’t yell. She didn’t say a thing. But I could read her disappointment, especially when only two blooms appeared that spring.

For years, I didn’t have the opportunity to commit any more sins against nature. I went off to college and lived in apartments where I could do no damage. But my dormant talent for mayhem remained, and once I bought a house, it reared its ugly head again. Many a plant withered under my uncontrolled need to cut.  With practice, I grew better, but I’m always up for a lesson. Dan Heims of Terra Nova Nurseries, who will talk about “Plants That Earn Their Keep” at the show, stopped by to take me to lunch the other day and walked through my garden. Pretty soon, he pulled out his pruners and insisted on giving me a lesson. From now on, I’ll be “looking for the X.” And I plan to learn more at the YGP Show free seminars.

Creating Sound and Movement with Water

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Creating sound and movement in the garden with water provides its own rewards, and it doesn’t have to be elaborate or expensive. You and your (human) garden visitors will feel its calming effects and wildlife—be it bees, birds or your canine companion—will be refreshed as well.

My garden offers three still basins of water with their reflective, zen-like qualities and three bubbling versions. (Barney, my adorable Golden Retriever, likes to drink from all of them!)


A ceramic pot (silicon fills the holes to make it water tight) and bamboo fountain mask the noise of the neighborhood. Class balls add color. Photo: Janet Loughrey

A standalone fountain draws people onto the patio. The bees sip from the edges, which was a delightful surprise.  Photo: Janet Loughrey

One of two basalt bubblers create a natural looking bath for the birds.
Garden shows, in this case the Yard, Garden & Patio Show, offer ideas, too. And garden tours are always good for new ways to elegantly—or simply—create movement and soothing sounds with water.

Dennis’ 7 Dees Showcase Garden Come Alive Outside features plumbing parts and an agricultural stock tank
The entry to Jenna Bayer’s A Bountiful Feast…Trowel to Table Showcase Garden featured this water sculpture.
A gentle wall of water. Photo: Curt Kipp
Landscape designer Andriana Berry, APLD, created this gentle water feature in her garden.
Do you have a favorite type of water feature?

Favorite (Garden) Things

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Two gardening shows—the Northwest Flower & Garden Show, Seattle, Wash., and the Yard, Garden & Patio Show, Portland, Ore.—provided lots of new ways of thinking about gardening. It’s always fun to talk with gardening friends to see what favorite things were. Here’s a short list that will inspire me this year in the garden and house.

Plant a table full of color and texture, including herbs and other edibles. This table was designed by P. Annie Kirk, Redbird Restorative Gardens for Bauman Farms.
Aren’t these adorable and clever? “Sea urchin” air plants (Tillandsia) grow without soil and with just a little water. Click here for more care instructions.
Part of the Abundant Nature garden display, this hobbit door with its Celtic (and Trillium) design charmed me and many other visitors. It was created by Jane Hart, Jane’s Backyard.

Edible sculpture? What an interesting concept and great if you have sufficient light to get the lettuce to grow indoors. Of course, it could be grown outdoors this way, too.
This may be the best use of broken pottery ever! Eminently more charming than white plastic plant tags.
Appearing at both garden shows, prayer wheels by artist Christopher Moench touched my heart. I would love to have one in my garden to encourage me to pause and remind me of all my blessings.
This sculpture was perfectly lit and positioned to reinforce its strength and humble pose. It was in the The Art of Tranquility Showcase Garden designed by landscape architect Iftikhar Ahmed, Treeline Designz.

Gardens can be underwater, too, right? This was a lush aquarium that was a different take on miniature gardening. And, like gardening, gazing at aquarium fish reduces stress and subsequently lowers blood pressure.

As some readers know, I’m not a spiky plant enthusiast in general, however, this vignette at the Northwest Flower & Garden Show was truly inspired. I didn’t record who designed it, but their attention to detail was inspired!

Fragrant Plants Make Scents

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Gardening is a sensory activity. Visual beauty. Restful sounds (think water, bamboo clacking, leaves rustling, and bird chirping). Tasty fruit, vegetable and herbal delights. An almost infinite variety of tactile sensations, from prickly to downy soft. And then there’s all the floral, fresh, spicy and woodsy smells the garden has to offer from healthy soil to fragrant foliage and flowers.

Great Plant Picks has taken the guesswork out of finding fragrant plants that will succeed in our maritime Northwest climate. One hundred and forty-one plants, from Abelia‘Edward Goucher’ to Viburnumcarlesii ‘Aurora’, await your perusal. The website provides excellent descriptions, photos and cultural requirements for each plant to ensure your success.

Beacons in the Landscape

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It seems to me that yellow colored plants are starting to quietly scream for attention, and deservedly so. The color yellow is one of the easiest for humans to see and it most often connotes optimism and happiness. Yellow plants capture the eye to draw you into the garden or brighten a shady spot. I noticed dozens of plants in the past few weeks that would have a welcome home in my garden if space allowed. Yellow foliage most often caught my eye, but yellow flowers and bark shouldn’t be overlooked.

First and foremost is Golden Oriental Spruce (Picea orientalis‘Skylands’; photo at left). Oh how I’d love to have that front and center in my landscape!

I think I must have Edgeworthia papyrifera in my garden because it is not wildly fragrant and the buds are smaller than the ones I often see at the garden shows. While the early spring blooming yellow flowers are lovely, for many months I also enjoy the silver balls-of-potential that hang from the branch tips before it blooms. From my living room window--and without my glasses--it looks like bits of bursting popcorn! Click here for excellent information about Edgeworthia from Portland Nursery.
Edgeworthia papyrifera. Photo: Portland Nursery

Hellebores (Helleborus) may be about as perfect a plant as one could hope for. They bloom early and long, they are virtually evergreen and clean-up is a breeze. Thankfully, the yellows are becoming stronger with new breeding. Every year, I seem to grab a new Hellebore variety and yellow varieties are the first ones I reach for.
Helleborus'Golden Lotus'. Photo: Terra Nova Nurseries Inc.

If I had to choose one--and only one--favorite grass or perennial, it would be Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonochloa) and ‘All Gold’ performs beautifully. Talk about a carefree plant that plays well with others. This is it! In my opinion, every garden should have (many) more than just one.
Hakaonochloa'All Gold'. Photo: Terra Nova Nurseries Inc.

I’m not a fan of yucca (it has to do with an experience in my youth), but Yucca flaccida‘Golden Sword’ (which may be listed as Y. filamentosa‘Golden Sword’) deserves the raves it gets. Architectural and evergreen with a bold yellow stripe, it is hardy in a much of the U.S. (USDA zones 5-10). It is a Great Plant Pick plant for the maritime Northwest.
Yucca flaccida'Golden Sword'. Photo: Great Plant Picks

What are some of your favorite yellow plants?

The 15-Minute Gardener

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Epimedium
Admittedly, gardening is work. Unquestionably, the joys of gardening far exceed the chores necessary to keep the garden enjoyable for me, family and friends and visiting wildlife. However, if I attempt to spend hours at a stretch doing garden tasks, it is hard finding the motivation to put on my gardening shoes and gloves and get started.

What I prefer to do instead, is to take a few minutes a few days a week to do small chores that improve the garden. It’s amazing what can be accomplished in a short amount of time, and I am able to discover in the greatest detail what is unfolding as each season progresses.

This time of year, the easiest 15 minute gardening task is weeding. I can even do it in my slippers and robe.

If garden tools are easily accessible, many tasks can be done quickly: watering and grooming containers; sweeping the walk, deck or patio; planting one, or a few, of the plants that have been hanging around just waiting to be put in the ground; pruning a few limbs of that Japanese maple; ordering compost (the spreading of which is not on the 15 minute task list); planting a few summer blooming bulbs; setting a beer trap for spring slugs; smelling the roses…then deadheading them!




Rhododendron
I’m going home tonight after work to fill my yard debris container with yet another load of giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) needles. It will take less than 15 minutes, but one little step at a time, eventually I'll get them all cleaned up.

What garden tasks take you just a few minutes to accomplish?

Camillia bloom resting on Lonicera'Edmee Gold'

Pieris

Hellebore

Ornamental cherry blossoms

Put Out the Welcome Mat for Bees and Butterflies

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I’m learning how to grow food in my garden, but I’m also trying to create a full-service restaurant for pollinators. (By the way, it’s worth planting onions just to see the bees go ga-ga over the blossoms.) The National Gardening Bureau is encouraging all of us to do at least one thing to encourage bees and butterflies to visit our gardens.

•    Plant flowers with open petals and upright stamens like cosmos and coneflowers for easy access (this would be the equivalent of a fast food restaurant), or that are heavy pollen producers like dahlias and peonies.
•    Offer a long season of blooms to provide a food source for as long as possible, from very early spring (crocus) to late fall (asters).
•    Provide nesting spots (open ground for ground-nesters) and shelter such as standing grasses, flower stalks and shrubs.
•    Offer host plants for caterpillars (milkweed for Monarchs as an example) and sun-loving flowers (butterflies prefer sunny spots).
•    Provide shallow water for bees and butterflies to sip.
•    Encourage your neighbors to join you in creating food and habitat for pollinators.

I’m heading to the Hardy Plant Society sales in Portland and will be on the lookout for pollinator-friendly plants. What plants are most attractive to pollinators in your garden?

Spring’s Rebirth

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In Spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.
                                     Margaret Atwood, Bluebeard’s Egg


Bergenia'Lunar Glow'
April is an exciting time in the garden. It’s the perfect time to watch leaves unfurl, blossom bloom, and inhale the fragrance of the Earth and all that it offers us. Just like Mother’s, Father’s and Grandparent’s days were created to bring attention to people we should honor each day, Earth Day and Arbor Day/Week/Month were created to bring our attention back to the importance of our surroundings and our role in preserving the beauty and health of living things.

I wish you a month where you take at least one brief moment each day to see and enjoy the minutia of gardens, gardening and all the things that thrive in a healthy space. And for those of you who have contributed to bringing unhealthy spaces back to life, THANK YOU!

Bette Midler, entertainer and founder of New York Restoration Project (NYRP), is one of those people. Since 1995, she has used her celebrity to protect and preserve New York City’s public spaces and parks. NYRP is committed to the belief that clean, green neighborhoods are fundamental to our quality of life and that every community in New York City deserves an oasis of natural beauty. Heck, every city and town deserves oases of natural beauty!

Everywhere there are tireless volunteers and leaders in the horticultural world that conserve and create beauty for the rest of us to enjoy. So for this month of Earth Day, please celebrate the bounty of the gardening community and each other by nurturing the soil in your garden, planting something that will bring you joy and better health, and visiting the botanical treasures that surround us.

Conifers for Shade

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I have a shady yard, in large part because I have huge conifers—sequoia, spruce, cedar and fir. There are so many interesting conifers I would like to integrate into the design of my garden, but finding those that will tolerate a fair amount of shade has been an ongoing search. In the recently published Conifer Quarterly, Winter 2014, by the American Conifer Society, an article titled “Appreciating Conifers in the Shade” gave me a bit of hope.

The garden discussed in the article is in St. Louis, Missouri, a very different growing environment (USDA Zone 6a) with many more stressors than Portland, Ore. (USDA 8a in my neighborhood); however, it seems there are quite a number of genus and species that might be worth trying.

“Some types of acceptable shade for growing conifers are filtered shade, dappled shade, traveling shade, light shade and high canopied shade. Generally speaking, there is more light available in shady spots than gardeners realize,” concluded the authors Bruce and Chick Buehrig. More hope for me and my garden.

Tsuga canadensis (hemlocks) are a good place to start. I have several planted, including T.c.‘Gentsch White’. They live but I wouldn’t say they thrive, and in full shade ‘Gentsch White’ doesn’t have the showy white new growth it is known for. Other Tsuga cultivars mentioned in the article include ‘Stewart’s Gem’, ‘Curly’, ‘Canoe’, ‘Spring Glory’, ‘Greenbrier’, ‘Devil’s Fork’, ‘New Gold’ and the list goes on.

Picea orientalis (Oriental spruce) cultivars to consider include ‘Skylands’, ‘Bergman’s Gem’, ‘Connecticut Turnpike’, ‘Repens’, ‘Gowdy’, and ‘Shadow Broom’. I’m going to keep my eye out for ‘Skylands’; it offers year-round golden needles.
Picea orientalis'Skylands'. Photo courtesy of Conifer Kingdom
The authors state, “Surprisingly, Picea abies [Norway spruce] is a superb candidate for low-light areas.”

Taxus (yews), especially the columnar varieties which add height are good candidates for adding interest in a shadier spot. Look for ‘Beanpole’, ‘Stovepipe’, ‘David’, ‘Minuet’, ‘Citation’, ‘Erecta’, ‘Standishii’ and ‘Sentinel’, the authors’ favorite (I’m guessing they are referring to Taxus x media‘Sentinalis’). ‘Flushing’ and ‘Maureen’ which reach ten feet tall by two feet wide can be focal points.  ‘Citation’ is also a favored addition to their landscape.

Cephalotaxus (plum-yew) thrive in more shade. Look for ‘Duke Gardens’, ‘Fastigiata’, ‘Hedgehog’ and ‘Korean Gold’.
Cephalotaxus harringtonia 'Korean Gold'. Photo courtesy of Oreogn State University.
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis (Alaska cedar) grows in shade, but doesn’t attain the height of examples grown in sunnier locations. ‘Van den Akker’ is considered superior by the authors, but other cultivars to consider include ‘Jubilee’, ‘Green Arrow’ and Stricta’.
Chamaecyparis nootkatensis'Van den Akker'. Photo courtesy of Dancing Oaks Nursery.
Sciadopitys verticillata (Japanese umbrella pine), Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar), Ginkgo biloba, Pinus cembra (stone pine), Pinus sylvestris (Scot’s pine), Pinus strobus (white pine), and Picea glauca (spruce) have also been grown by the authors in shadier conditions.

Perhaps not all of these species and cultivars will thrive in the shade of the Maritime Northwest—after all, St. Louis has much warmer and moister summers than we do—but it does suggest that there may be a few more conifers that can add year round interest in our gardens, even in shadier conditions.

Sources for more unusual conifers, in addition to your local garden center, include Conifer Kingdom, Oregon Small Trees, Dancing Oaks, Forestfarm, Porterhowse Farms, River Rock Nursery and Secret Garden Growers.

OAN rolls out first-ever Plant Something™ art contest

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April is a month to celebrate trees, Earth Day and spring. The Oregon Association of Nurseries is asking elementary school-age kids to create colorful artwork around the theme "Plants Make Our Lives Better." Winning artwork will appear on the cover of Digger, the OAN's monthly industry publication, in a 2015 e-calendar, on the www.Plant-Something.org Facebook page and www.PlantSomethingOregon.com website, at the 2014 Farwest Trade Show, one of the largest wholesale trade shows in the country, and other venues.

Please help us get the word out by contacting your children's elementary school teachers and by sharing the contest rules. To be eligible, artwork must be completed in class and postmarked by May 12, 2014. A team of OAN members will select the winning artwork. If you have questions, please contact Ann Murphy at amurphy@oan.org or 503-682-5089.

» Contest Rules
» Release Form

Large Shrub or Small Tree?

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There is a Rhododenron for every size garden. You may have a too large rhododendron that requires an annual pruning to keep it at a reasonable size. Unless the rhody is too close to your foundation or otherwise gets in the way, or pruning puts you in the zen zone, there’s a better way than wrestling with size reduction. Instead, consider embracing its ultimate size and “arborize” it, i.e., limb it up and turn it into a structural, small, evergreen tree; one that offers a month worth of luscious blooms and a year-round presence.

This time of year is perfect for enjoying the vast variety of the genus Rhododendron, from species to gloriously exotic. Most of us have more mundane rhodys that came with the house. Case in point: I have three large rhodys in the 6-10 foot wide strip of soil between my driveway and my neighbor’s driveway. They are interplanted with large, awkward-looking ornamental cherry trees (lovely in bloom, but they offer little value during the rest of the year). In the next year or two, the cherries will likely be removed, at which time we can begin to shape the rhodys into “replacement” trees.

I fell in love with the large and fragrant Rhododendron loderi‘King George’ at the Cecil and Molly Smith Garden in St. Paul, Ore. And of course the Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden offers months of stunning blooms, excellent for inspiration and taking colorful “selfies.”

Potato Towers

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I have grown potatoes in potato towers for the past two years with moderate success. I planted one layer and then tried to keep up with the fast-growing stalks and leaves by adding alternating layers of straw and a potting soil/compost mixture. New potatoes grew along the elongating stalks. At the end of the season, the towers get tipped over to reveal the new potatoes. All in all, easier than digging down into the soil to retrieve the new produce. Inevitably, the stalks and leaves grew faster than I was able to keep up.

Always on the lookout for shortcuts, I came across a potato tower blog that suggests the routine can be simplified…and the yield improved. Rather than trying to stay ahead of the fast-growing greenery, the author suggests planting multiple layers under compost all in one go, then letting the stalks grow naturally out the sides and top of the tower. When the stalks and leaves turn brown, it is time to harvest by tipping the tower on its side and reaping your rewards.

Shall we give it a try?

Invasive Species Hotline

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Giant hogweed* (Heracleum mantegazzianum). Photo: WikiCommons.

Invasive species are animals and plants that are not native to an ecosystem and that cause economic or environmental harm. They can take over landscapes and drive native wildlife away. More than 50,000 non-native species have been introduced to the United States throughout our history, but invaders don't have to come from outside the U.S. to be considered invasive. Something native to the Eastern U.S. can be invasive  in Oregon. Click here for Oregon's top 100 Worst List.

There are two easy ways for people to report invasive species sightings to the Oregon Invasive Species Council: a toll-free call (1.866.INVADER ) or submitting an online form.  All invading plants and animals should be reported. Once reported, the information is screened and the person making the report is connected with an expert able to make a quick identification. The hotline has been instrumental in early identification of invading species. See something odd? Give them a call.

Want to learn more about invaders, where they come from and what we can do to stop them? Watch Oregon Public Broadcasting’s The Silent Invasion (online or purchase the DVD), visit The Silent Invasion website, check out the Oregon Invasive Species blog, or visit the website of the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife.

*Giant hogweed is one of Oregon's top 100 worst invasive species. It escaped from arboretums and private gardens, and is now naturalized in surrounding areas, especially riparian and urban sites. The plant exudes a clear watery sap which sensitizes the skin to ultraviolet radiation. Humans often develop severe burns to the affected areas resulting in blistering and painful dermatitis. Blisters can later develop into purplish or blackened scars. Currently under eradication or restricted to a small area in Oregon.







A Tough Turf Job?

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I have struggled to maintain a healthy lawn for a number of reasons: lots of shade, the soil is likely too acidic, grubs, and lots of wet soil (there’s a layer of grey clay that runs through my yard, which Barney, my adorable golden retriever, finds irresistible...and he’s willing to dig to find it). Doesn’t sound very hopeful, does it? Last year when I had work done in my garden by JP Stone Contractors, they helped the lawn along in time for a late May garden tour by putting down compost and over-seeding. After a year, the grass has reverted to its straggly ways. Obviously, more drastic action is needed.

My lawn rehabilitation plan involves raking; a unit of compost or Grimm’s Lawn & Turf Mix (I used MacFarlane’s Bark“how much do I need” calculator); JB Instant Lawn grass seed for shade; micro-clover seeds, because it’s supposed to grow in the shade; and English daisy seeds to create a meadow-like effect in the sunnier parts of the turf. In addition to these “to do’s” and "need to have's," a friend suggested that aeration should also be done so that the top dressing of mulch gets down into the soil. I think I need to order up a few sunny days and take some time off work to get it all done in a timely fashion…and then I have to figure out how to keep Barney off the area until the grass grows in! Or, I could kill the existing grass, prep the soil, and bring in turf to start anew (click here for Oregon Turf & Tree’s turf calculator). Hmmmmm.

Which would you do?!?!?

To test the lawn for some of the most common problems, Garden Time TV offered turf tips on the April 19 show from Alec Kowalewski, an Oregon State University turfgrass specialist.

•    Mow the grass to the right height to help create a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant lawn. Trim only one-third of the grass’s height to protect roots from the sun (e.g., trim one inch off three inch tall grass).
•    Avoid over-watering by testing for moisture. Push a screwdriver into the ground. If it is difficult to push in, the soil is dry and you need to water. If the blade goes in easily, the lawn doesn’t need water.
•    Most turf grasses prefer soil with a neutral pH. An easy home pH test involves mason jars (2) and ½ cup each of water, baking soda and vinegar. Fill two jars about half full of soil. Add a half-cup of water to the soil in the first jar. Mix well and then add a half-cup baking soda to the slurry. If this mixture fizzes, the soil is very acidic. Overly acidic soil can be amended with lime. If there’s no reaction, add a half-cup vinegar to the second jar. If the mixture fizzes, the soil is highly alkaline and sulfur can be added to neutralize the soil.
•    If there are dead patches in the lawn, it could be caused by grubs feeding on the roots of the grass in the fall. To treat 1,000 square feet of grass infested with grubs, dilute two tablespoons of lemon-scented liquid dish soap in a gallon of water and spray it on the lawn. The grubs will come to the surface, where you can collect them (the neighborhood birds might help you with this unseemly task). 

Favorite Garden Vignette…of the Moment

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The view is always a little bit different each time I wander out into the garden. Yesterday, the part of the garden I kept coming back to actually is a view from my bedroom window. It overlooks a just-about-to-burst-open pink Rhododendrons yakushimanum, a stalk of bleeding heart Dicentra‘Gold Heart’, a variegated Lonicera nitida (‘Lemon Beauty’?), and Hydrangea macrophylla‘Lemon Daddy' all tucked under an Acer palmatum 'Sango-kaku'. Sprinkled around are lovely hostas and the thug Arum (which I’m not happy about, but can’t seem to get rid of).

What plant combinations are grabbing your attention?

Tidbits about Tomatoes

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Sungold Cherry Tomatoes - Photo: WikiCommons
It’s May 17 and today’s the day I bought tomato plants—at Garden Fever! this year—for my community garden plot. I intended to buy only three cherry-type tomatoes, but I couldn’t resist trying two others as well. Black Cherry, Sweet Million, perennial favorite Sungold, Oregon Spring (an Oregon State University introduction) and Viva Italia, a plum tomato, are now snug in their beds. The latter two are determinant varieties; the others are indeterminant tomatoes. What’s the difference? Once flowers form at the branch tips, determinant varieties stop growing, keeping the plant to about 3 feet tall. Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing until stopped by frost, which means the fruit ripens over a longer period of time. (It also means that most tomato cages sold commercially aren’t tall enough to contain them.) To get the most from indeterminant varieties, prune the non-fruiting branches and leaves so more energy goes into fruit production.

“Low maintenance” and “easy” are my gardening mantras. Consequenetly, it’s usually just a hole that gets dug in the well-tended, compost-amended garden soil. This year I splurged and added lime and bone meal to the planting hole. I probably should have added a teaspoon of Epsom salt, too, to promote productivity, but I forgot. During the growing season, Organic Gardening recommends a weekly application of liquid seaweed to increase fruit production and plant health, and two or three additions of compost. It’s likely that I will forget to do this, and before I know it, the growing season will be at an end.

I had to shake my head when I saw a posting on Pinterest recommending that a half dozen fish heads and other amendments should be added to a deep planting hole to ensure healthy, productive tomato plants. Ewww … I don’t think so!

Nighttime temperatures are expected to dip below 50 degrees for the week ahead so I need to give my tomato plants – and basil – some protection. I think I’ll stop by Goodwill and pick up some tall glass vases for this purpose, but plastic gallon milk jugs would work well, too.

What do you do to help your tomatoes grow well?

For the plant-geekier readers, here are some interesting tidbits about tomatoes (source: Wikipedia):

Originating from South America, botanically speaking, tomatoes are fruit, a berry actually. Because the tomato has much lower sugar content than other edible fruits, it is typically served as part of a salad or main course rather than dessert. It is considered a vegetable for most culinary purposes (except tomatoes are treated as a fruit in home canning practices: they are acidic enough to process in a water bath rather than a pressure cooker as vegetables require). In 1893, the U.S. Supreme Court declared the tomato a vegetable. This declaration had economic implications: an 1887 U.S. tariff law imposed a duty on vegetables, but not on fruits. The tomato is the state vegetable of New Jersey, Ohio, Tennessee and Arkansas (where it is also the state fruit).

Resources:

•    Tomato plants developed at OSU: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/osu-develops-tomatoes-especially-pnw-gardeners , including the purple tomato.
•    Tomato Varieties recommended by OSU: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/lincoln/sites/default/files/RECOMMENDED_TOMATO_VARIETIES.pdf
•    10 tips for Growing Awesome Tomatoes: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/secrets-tomato-growing-success?page=0,0

Roses = Shrubs

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Honey Perfume, a Florabunda Rose
Shrubs provide structure, texture, color and scale to gardens. They are sometimes evergreen and often deciduous. And ideally they are low maintenance. Most often they require exposure to some sun during the day and often require a lot of sun. What comes to mind when you think of a shrub?  I’m guessing roses don’t often make the “top of mind” list (nor do Japanese maples, but that’s a blog for another time). For some reason, I think of roses as their own separate category, but I also think that’s a mistake.

It used to be that many roses required a lot of care and upkeep. Nowadays, so much breeding effort has gone into creating roses that are carefree and more modest in size that it is time to encourage gardeners to think roses when they want a flowering shrub for a sunny location.

I recently visited Portland’s International Rose Test Garden. It was a lovely evening and many people were enjoying one of Portland’s great destinations (including a lot of wild looking people dressed up in togas…weird, huh?). Of course there are the glorious flowers, some of which deliver on fragrance, but bronzy foliage can also be found. Stately or shrub-like are also options. And the color range is breathtaking! Surely anyone can find a shrub that happens to be from the genus Rosa to work in their garden. Rosa ‘William Shakespeare’, a David Austin Rose from Heirloom Roses is about to share it’s beautiful, fragrant, magenta blooms with me in my garden.

What rose do you recommend?


Portland's International Rose Test Garden
Princess Alexandra of Kent, an English Rose
Pop the Cork, a Hybrid Tea Rose

Pink Flamingo, a Grandiflora Rose with bronzy foliage

The Star of the Yard

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The mock orange as viewed from my living room window
I see it. I smell it. I love it. It’s an exclamation point in my garden. I’m talking about the mock orange (formally known as Philadelphus) that is exploding right now with deliciously fragrant, single, white blooms. Mine usually blooms around summer solstice, but this year it is already inching toward peak bloom a few weeks earlier. Darn! Because I am opening my garden for a few hours on June 23rd and I was hoping to have my Philadelphus play a starring role. Alas, it is not to be this year.

I actually have three Philadelphus in my garden. They were well on their way to maturity when I bought the house more than 15 years ago so I have no idea of their age or parentage. One is planted in a very shady area of the yard; though tall, not surprisingly it has sparse blooms. Another is a double. It is perhaps around 10 feet tall, also deliciously fragrant. It usually starts blooming a week or so later than the star of the yard, the mock orange I see from my living room window. That one is perhaps 15 feet tall and vase shaped.

Though it’s hard not to be distracted by the glorious blooms, if you look carefully it is actually an awkward shrub. I find it difficult to prune well because new growth shoots straight up at a 90 degree angle and there is a fair amount of die back at the tips each year. This website recommends cutting out up to one-third of the oldest branches each year. Because it blooms on last year’s growth, or “old” wood, it is best to prune after it blooms. I haven’t done any drastic pruning before, but perhaps it is worth a try.

After it blooms, there is little to recommend my largest mock orange other than its scale and the fact that it harbors no pest or disease. To provide an additional few months of interest, two Clematis have been plant to grow up through it.

Perhaps it is one of our native mock orange: Philadelphus gordonianus Lindl. var. columbianus (synonym of Philadelphus lewisii Pursh). A bit of a mouthful for such a star.
A double Philadelphus

Mingling with Black Lace Sambucus

The single flowers from the largest mock orange


Wrangling Garden Hoses

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I do a lot of hand watering of my garden. One of the most frustrating things about gardening for me is keeping the garden hoses unkinked and not in a big mess of a knot when in use and tidy when not in use. I purchase hoses that purport to be kink-free, but so far none have lived up to their promotional promises. Then I’ve struggled with how to keep the hoses reasonably contained in a relatively tidy fashion.

There are lots of options, many of which are expensive, so I wonder which works best. Hose pots look attractive, especially the hammered copper variety; hose reels look more practical; hose trucks, carts and cabinets look functional and durable, but take up lots of space; and then there are the house mounted hose butlers in a myriad of designs. I have three hose connections I need to find solutions for, with hoses ranging from 50 feet to 150 feet.

Do you have a solution that helps you keep your sanity (my neighbors probably fear they have a pirate living next door with all the ARGHHHHHs and explicatives coming from my yard)?!? Please share. I’ll thank you and my neighbors will, too!

Edibles Amongst the Ornamentals

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Rhubarb, Allium and Podocarpus lawrencei 'Red Tip
I am a proponent of tucking edibles in amongst ornamental plants. But this garden design strategy has its drawbacks, especially when the pleasing nature of a plant combination relies on a particular attribute of the edible plant. In my case, the dilemma involves rhubarb. When should I harvest it?

I love the contrast provided by the humongous rhubarb leaves. But when I harvest the rhubarb, which I so enjoy, it leaves a gaping hole where once there was striking foliage. The problem is amplified because I’m planning to open my garden to visitors in a few weeks and I want them to appreciate the impact of my plant choices.

Please the stomach or give priority to aesthetics? I think it’s time for a rhubarb and strawberry pie!
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